It's strangely versatile ...

What I love about Andy’s fish is that it’s as much a joy to make as it is to serve and eat. There’s a steadiness to slicing fragrant leeks, garlic, lemon and clementine, a rhythm to grinding saffron.

There are sandwiches, and then there are the towering monuments to excess that Harold’s New York Deli in Edison calls sandwiches. These creations are stacked so impossibly high that attempting to eat ...